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Recently, seven chefs made a F1 car that made of bread, and they believed that it must be a surprise for F1 racing enthusiasts.This F1 racing car is made by the chef of Royal Plaza and six other cooks, two artists, two technicians, and two other staffs.It is made of 33 pounds of yeast, 14 liters of water, 4.4 pounds of salt, as well as other kinds of food.And it was made up of bread, dessert and so on, also the color was well controlled at the same time.That makes it looks like a piece of nice artwork of food.

The F1 world racing tournament is held by the International Auto Association first in 1950, and it has been held annually since then.A British called Ecclestone is its head.According to the score, the driver who gets the highest is the champion of the F1 drivers of the year, while the team that gets highest total score is the champion of the year.Formula one racing car is derived from the track racer of the beginning of this century.It is divided into 3 grades: three equations, three liters of Formula One and Formula One.

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F1 World Championship was held by the International Automobile Federation in 1950 for the first time and then comes off annually.The sect head of it is Ecol Stone from Brithish.The champion of the year is decided by the cumulative scoring of all players, and the champion team is the one with the highest score of all its players.Formula 1 Grand Prix is derived from the track cycle the turn of the century.Formula cars are divided into 3 grades: Formula Three, Three Liters of Formula and Formula One.

The first class formula is the highest level of the formula race.The speed of F1 racing car is excessively fast, such a high speed can be only produced in a sudden.However, this kind of racing cars can neither be batch manufactured nor for a perennial used, thus it can not be a car in its true sense.Therefor, only the F1 racing car is the real king of speed.

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   The world of F1 racing tournameng is held by the International Auto Assosiation first in 1950, and then become annual.British Ecclestone is the master.Participants compete for the drivers’ title by their number of points of the year, and the racing team that gets the highest overall scores of racing drivers may win the Motorcade Total Champion of the Year.Formula One came fom the field racing at the beginning of this century.The Formula racing can be devided into three grades: F3, F3 kl. and F1.
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Gas prices keep going up, and the money in our wallet keeps evaporating more quickly. There are many ways you can spend less money on gas and reduce your overall fuel consumption. But, you must think it through and begin formulating new plans! One technique that has been around for a while but has drawn more attention recently is hypermiling. However, use your head because some hypermiling techniques are illegal and extremely dangerous.

— Steps —

Drive less

1 Walk, bike, ride the bus or join a carpool.

2 Reduce your commute by moving closer to work or working closer to home. This will save time as well as money. You may even be able to save even more money by becoming a one-car family.

3 Combine trips. If you can do several short trips in one longer trip, you will save fuel and time. Make lists to avoid having to go back. Call ahead to avoid wasted trips.

4 Walk between stops. Once you get into town, some of your stops may be near each other. Park between some or all of them and walk.

5 Park in the first spot you find. If you wander all over the parking lot looking for that really close parking space, you’ll use more gas. Don’t be afraid to walk a ways if it comes to that - the walk will do you good!

Find good prices
1 Don’t be brand conscious when buying gas. Buy where you can get the best deal. Regular gas is very much a commodity meaning there isn’t any significant difference between any of the brands. In fact, all the brands fill their tanker trucks at whatever refinery is closest and the only difference between “brands” is a few gallons of a proprietary additive package that gets mixed with the fuel loaded to the truck. All additives must meet OEM and EPA performance standards so the only real difference between brands is the audacity of the superior performance claims.

2 Use a fuel with the lowest required octane. Low-octane “regular” gas is usually all that is required. Octane is only a rating of the fuel’s resistance to engine-damaging pre-ignition (”knock”) in high-performance engines (that few people have). Low octane gas is less expensive and a better value if that’s all your engine requires. Best case scenario you’re wasting money by filling up with a higher than recommended grade of gas. Worst case scenario that high octane fuel is building up damaging carbon deposits in your engine because it’s not being burned as completely as lower octane fuel would be. Check your owner’s manual to be sure. Modern high performance cars will sometimes recommend higher octane fuels because they are engineered to use those fuels. The use of lower than recommended octane will not make your car explode, the ECM (Engine Control Module, aka:computer) will adjust the fuel injectors and spark timing to save the engine and compensate for you cheaping out at the pump. Those adjustments will consist of retarding the spark (reducing power and efficiency) as well as dumping lots of extra fuel into the cylinders to cool them, potentially costing you more than getting mid grade or premium IF that’s what your car requires. Also remember that engines need less octane at higher altitudes. If your engine does not “knock” on regular, paying more for a higher octane rating is a waste since the increased octane makes no significant improvement to gas mileage and it is no better for your engine. All available fuels have detergent and additive packages.

3 Apply for a credit card which offers gas savings when you use the card for purchases. This works in much the same way that some credit card companies allow you to earn frequent flyer miles when you use their card for purchases.

4 Join a loyalty club. Some gas stations, department stores and grocery stores offer lower prices when you present their membership card. Keep your eyes open and verify that their prices are really lower than other stations in your neighborhood.

5 Check the web for deals. With the ever increasing gas prices, use the Internet to find the cheapest gas near you. Some of these sites even offer text messaging capabilities, where they will send you the a text message with the location of the cheapest gas in your area. Here are 3 sites that enable you to search for lower price in your town: MapQuest, GasBuddy.com and GasPriceWatch.com. GasPricesRelief.com now supplies a free gas card valid at most gas stations. But don’t drive miles out of your way or wait in excessively long lines (your car gets 0 MPG while stopped and idling.) just for a cheaper station, or you will defeat the purpose.

6 Mix octanes. In some areas, the lower octane may be too low for your car and the mid-grade or higher octane may be more than what you need. To avoid overpaying and still get the correct octane for your car you can mix the gas. For example, if your car takes 87 octane and the pumps have 85 octane and 89 octane, then when filling your car, fill half the tank with 85 octane and the other half with 89 octane and this will give you an equivalent of 87 octane plus it will save you money because the lower octane gas costs less.

Determine whether gas with ethanol is right for your vehicle

1  * If there is a high proportion of ethanol, the lower energy content of the fuel will almost always lower mileage.
* Fuel with ethanol may be less expensive than standard gas, but consider the reduced fuel economy. You may or may not save money by filling up with cheaper (subsidized) ethanol blended fuel. You first need to know if, and how much your fuel economy suffers on ethanol blended fuel vs. non-ethanol fuel. You then need to calculate your fuel cost per mile (or km) for each fuel.
* Ethanol is not much better for the environment, because only ethanol made with sugar cane is more fuel efficient from the harvesting and processing than regular gas. Fuels with ethanol additives can corrode fuel lines in vehicles not designed with ethanol fuels in mind, but E10 and E20 do not damage your engine.

2 Don’t refill your tank until the last quarter tank but don’t push this any further. Doing this can extend your gas because you are hauling a lighter fuel load. It also gives you the opportunity to buy more gas if you run across a bargain. However, in cold weather, you run an increased risk of condensation in the fuel tank. Running a car with less than a quarter tank can shorten the life of the electric fuel pump and running on empty will often destroy the pump because it is forced to run constantly trying to pressurize fuel since it often has access to only air. The hard-running pump motor then overheats because it needs a bath of liquid fuel to transfer operational heat to and it also loses pressure building ability because its internal seals needs gas to lubricate against friction. Keeping the tank one-quarter full also is a safety issue as you never know when you might experience an emergency and need gasoline in your car!

3 Fill the tank full. If you need to fill up, fill up all the way. The more money you try to save by adding $10 today and then $20 tomorrow will be wasted since each time you will have to travel to the station and wait for a pump. Instead, do it all at once to save time and money.

4 Don’t top off the tank. It is wasted money and bad for the environment because it invariably forces liquid fuel into the evaporative emissions system where it overwhelms circuits that are supposed to only route fuel tank vapors to the engine while it is running and can be burned.

5 Buy gas on Wednesday. Gas prices are statistically the cheapest on Wednesdays, but this is only statistically true over a large number of days. It won’t be true every week.

6 Buy gas three days before a holiday. Gas prices almost always go up for holidays.

Take care of your car

1 Give your car a tune up. Properly maintaining your car will keep your car running as efficiently as possible.

2 Change the oil regularly. Use a synthetic oil instead of mineral oil. This will cause your engine to run better and give you better mileage.

3 Upgrade your air filter. More efficient brands of air filters cost a little more but will pay for themselves in most vehicles in fuel savings. Check it every oil change and change it regularly. Clogged air filters cause engines to work overtime which requires more fuel.

4 Use a fuel injector cleaner or complete fuel system treatment occasionally. Not only will you see a boost in gas mileage, but in your car’s overall performance. Fouled injectors vaporize fuel poorly, affecting how completely the fuel is burned.

5 Upgrade your tires. Low resistance tires, such as Michelin Energy MX 4 Plus claim to increase gas mileage.

6 Check the air pressure in the tires every week. Buy an inexpensive air pump and an accurate tire gauge. Keep all tires inflated to the pressure as recommended for your car.

7 Clean out any unnecessary items in your car. If you have heavy objects in your car that you don’t need, remove them. If your car is lighter, it will use less fuel to get where you’re going.

8 Remove unneeded racks. If you have a bicycle or ski rack, remove it when you’re not using it. It causes drag and lowers mileage.

Buy a different car

1 Buy a diesel. Diesel cars can often get better mileage than comparable hybrids. Getting a diesel car also allows for use of bio-diesel or even waste vegetable oil (WVO/SVO) fuel.

2 Buy a hybrid. Not only do hybrids give you immediate savings at the pump, the U.S. government and your local state offer tax breaks for people who use gas-saving cars. Federal deductions for using gas-saving cars can be as high as $2,000, but check before buying to see if they’re still in effect. Also, check with your insurance company because Hybrids have higher insurance rates.

3 Buy a smaller car. Generally speaking, smaller cars are lighter and get better mileage.

4 Buy a motorcycle or scooter instead of a car. They are cheaper and often get 70 MPG or better. Riding gear is available for most weather conditions. A good example is the Kawasaki EX250, which costs about $3,000, gets 60-70 MPG at highway speeds, and can go 0-60 MPH in under 6 seconds!

Drive smarter

1 Avoid idling. While idling, your car gets exactly 0 miles per gallon while starting the car uses the same amount as idling for 6 seconds. Park your car and go into the restaurant rather than idling in the drive-through. Idling with the air conditioning on also uses extra fuel. Also, avoid going so fast that you have to brake for someone. Whenever you brake, you waste the gas it took to get going that fast.

2 Plan your trips in advance. This can prevent wasting fuel and wasting time. Plan to use alternative routes. Often back roads can prevent you from stopping at traffic lights and more importantly sitting in traffic jams. Try to schedule your trips and errands when traffic is lighter.

3 Use a global positioning system (GPS) to help you navigate and find the fastest and shortest distance to your destination. Avoiding hills and stops will increase your gas mileage.

4 Drive at a consistent speed. Avoid quick acceleration and hard braking. Cruise control will keep you at a constant speed, even when going up and down hills.

5 Avoid stops. If approaching a red light, see if you can slow down enough to avoid having to actually stop (because you reach the light after it is green). Speeding up from 5 or 10 miles per hour will be easier on the gas than starting from full stop.

6 Anticipate the stop signs and lights. Look far ahead; get to know your usual routes. You can let up on the gas earlier. Coasting to a stop will save the gasoline you would otherwise use maintaining your speed longer. If it just gets you to the end of a line of cars at a red light or a stop sign a few seconds later, it won’t add any time to your trip. Ditto for coasting to lose speed before a highway off-ramp: if it means you catch up with that truck halfway around the curve instead of at the beginning, you haven’t lost any time. In many cities, if you know the streets well, you can time the lights and maintain the appropriate speed to hit all green lights. Usually this is about 35 to 40 MPH.

7 Maintain a safe following distance. Don’t stick to the bumper of the car directly in front of you. You will brake more and accelerate more to keep that unnecessary and dangerous narrow gap. This also gives you a lot more room to play with when you are timing traffic signals. Likewise, ignore tailgaters. They will tailgate you whether you go the speed limit, or 100MPH over the speed limit. Allow them pass when it’s convenient.

8 Slow down. Air resistance goes up as the square of velocity. The power consumed to overcome that air resistance goes up as the cube of the velocity. Rolling resistance is the dominant force below about 40 mph. Above that, every mph costs you mileage. Go as slow as traffic and your schedule will allow. Drive under 60-65 since air grows exponentially denser, in the aerodynamic sense, the faster we drive. To be precise, the most efficient speed is your car’s minimum speed in it’s highest gear, since this provides the best “speed per RPM” ratio. This is usually about 45 to 55 miles per hour.

9 Take off slowly from a full stop. This is one adjustment that will have dramatic effects on your gas mileage; don’t tear off from a stoplight or stop sign!

10 Stay well away from store fronts where you will spend significantly more time idling and waiting for pedestrians and other vehicles.

11 Use A/C only on the highway. At lower speeds, open the windows. This increased the drag and reduces fuel efficiency, but not as much as the AC at low speeds (35-40 mph). The air con - when used a lot - is known to use up about 8% of the fuel you put into your car.

12 Shift into neutral if you are not comfortable with downshifting. Standard transmission vehicles may save gas by shifting into neutral when going down hills steep enough to maintain speed (although engine braking is safer on steeper declines). Do not do this in a Hybrid car, they use this “regenerative engine braking” to generate electricity and charge the batteries. NOTE: This strategy will result in more wear and tear on your brakes. Neither of these strategies is recommended for normal automatic cars. Also, if you own a car with fuel injection, it is more efficient to keep the car in a high gear while going down hills. Simply take your foot off the gas.

13 Park in the shade. Gasoline actually evaporates right out of your tank, and it does so faster when you park directly in the sun - winter or summer. Parking in the shade also keeps it cooler inside, and you will need less A/C to cool off when you get back in. If there is no shade available, park so that your gas tank (the actual tank under the car, not the valve to fill it) is facing away from the direct sun. Also, today’s fuel systems are supposed to be airtight. Your gas cap should have a seal in it. Make sure that the seal is keeping the fumes in and outside air out.

Thanks to: http://www.wikihow.com/Save-Money-on-Gas

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You’re exiting the freeway on that killer ramp—the one with the steep grade and the hairpin turn midway down. You try the brakes, and… nothing. You keep careening at 75 mph toward the guardrail, that broken length of floss that is the only thing between you and a 400-foot dive into a shallow lake full of fire-breathing alligators.

Okay, that scenario is a bit unlikely, but the fact is, brake failure can be a terrifying — and dangerous — experience no matter where it occurs. While automobile brakes don’t fail often, every motorist should know what to do if it happens. Here’s how to control your car safely if your brakes go out.

1. Don’t panic!

2. Take your foot off the gas, and turn off cruise control (if on). Cruise control systems should turn off as soon as you touch the brake or clutch, but make sure it’s switched off.

3. Pay attention to how your brake pedal feels.

* If your brake pedal is soft and goes to the floor, you may have low fluid, a faulty master cylinder or problems with your drums or calipers. You may be able to rebuild some braking pressure by pumping the brakes (see the next step).

* If your brake pedal is hard and does not move, something in your brake system may have seized or you may have an obstruction under the pedal. Try to feel with foot (or have a passenger look) to see whether you have something under the brake pedal.

4. Pump your brakes. Pumping your brakes several times may rebuild enough pressure in the braking system for you to stop. This may take a while, so keep trying. You should do this even if your car is equipped with ABS as the ABS is only activated when your car is braking too hard, which won’t be the problem if your brakes have failed. Than, regardless of whether the car has ABS brakes or not, quickly squeeze the brakes down to the floor, to make the most out of all of the pressure you have preserved or built-up, as hydraulic (or air) brakes rarely fail all together. Keep the brakes squeezed to the floor.

5. Shift into low gear. Shifting into lower gears helps slow you by using your engine to slow the car.

* If you have a manual transmission, downshift quickly. Be careful not to downshift too fast unless you need to slow the car as soon as possible; rapid downshifts into first or second gear can cause you to lose control. Go into the lowest gear you can, and try to downshift again once the vehicle slows a bit. Keep working down through the gears.

* If you have an automatic transmission, downshift a gear at a time into low range (generally labeled as “1” on the shifting mechanism).

* If you have tap-to-shift, shift into manual “M” (generally to the right or left of “Drive” on console-shift vehicles or the bottom gear on column-shift vehicles) and press the minus button to shift down. Again, if you can’t go directly into the lowest range, try gradually shifting down.

* If you have additional means of slowing down the car, like a ritarder, exhaust-brakes or Jacobs-brake, use it, though not too rapidly, to avoid locking the driven wheels.

6. Use the emergency brake. The emergency brake, or parking brake, can usually stop a vehicle, although it will take longer than usual to come to a stop because it only stops the rear wheels. If possible, use the gears to slow you down, and the emergency brake only to bring you to final halt.

* Apply the brake (depending on your vehicle this is done either by pulling up on the handle or pushing down on the pedal) slowly and steadily. Your emergency brake can lock your tire if applied too hard or too fast, especially at high speed. If you pull up the brake quickly, you may lose control of your vehicle. To prevent this, use the release button (if your car has one) as you apply the emergency brake. This allows you to modulate the pressure with which you are applying the brake. If you feel or hear your tires lock, release a small bit of pressure from the brake application and hold it there. It should be stated that if the tires do squeal slightly, it does not necessarily mean that they are indeed locked-up. With a normal handlebar E-brake, one can apply it up to three clicks, to enable a controlled slow-down, and one or two extra clicks to bring the car to a final halt.

If you have a hand brake, keep the release button engaged

If you have a foot brake, hold the release lever as you push down on the brake

If you have a foot brake with a push-to-release system, squeeze down very, very slowly. If your tires lock up, release the brake and either try again, not applying as much pressure as before, or move on and try something else! Remember, the most important thing is to stay calm so that all of your options are open to you.

7. Keep your eyes on the road and continue to steer. Pay attention to what’s in front of you, and maneuver to avoid heavy traffic, pedestrians, and dangerous obstacles.

8. Warn other drivers and pedestrians. Turn your hazard lights on, and honk your horn to make others aware that there is a problem. Be sure to know the location of the hazard light button prior to such a situation. While they may not be able to figure out what the problem it is, a warning should cause most people to proceed with caution and pay attention to what your vehicle is doing. Open windows to enable air to stabilize and slow you down, also enabling you to shout through it to other passengers and drivers.

9. Slow the vehicle however you can. If the above measures fail to stop you, or if you must stop very quickly, do whatever you can. Ideally, you could use a runaway truck ramp, but as these are not particularly common, you’ll probably have to improvise. Keep in mind, however, that these techniques can be very dangerous, especially at high speeds, and should only be used as last resorts.

* Use friction to slow your vehicle. Driving through gravel or dirt (such as you might find right off the side of the road) can slow your vehicle considerably. Be very cautious when using this technique. Sudden terrain changes — especially if only under the wheels on one side of the car — can cause the car to flip, and may cause serious injury or death to yourself or others. Approach to a gravel or grassy shoulder must be made progressively, smoothly and gently. Afterwards, the car must be stabilized as it is driving along the shoulder of the road.

* Use guardrails to slow your vehicle. Cement dividers are built pear-shaped so that contact is made with the wheels, not with the precious metal and paint of your automobile. Applying friction to the rubber on your wheels will slow the car considerably without harming other portions of your vehicle. You can also gently sideswipe whatever is available.

* Use terrain to your advantage. Try to seek out inclines that you can go up. If this does not bring your car to a stop, be prepared to do some reverse driving and/or use the emergency brake at the appropriate time.

* Small trees and shrubbery will slow your vehicle when all else fails. Try to put your vehicle through the center of a line of shrubs or saplings, being careful not to pick a tree that is too heavy for your car to go through. Trees with trunks over 4 inches (116 mm) are considered dangerous to occupants of motor vehicles. Large trees can be fatal.

* Hit the back of another car. While obviously not a first choice, it will slow your vehicle. If you’re going to do so, try to warn the driver in front of you by honking your horn. Try to strike a vehicle that is traveling at about the same speed as yours (hitting a slow-moving or parked car will stop you, but the deceleration will be quick and extreme) and attempt to make impact squarely on the back of the vehicle. Glancing blows will likely send both vehicles out of control. Be extremely careful not to hit to hard as your airbag may go off.

10. Look for a safe spot to pull over (or to crash). Scan the road ahead for a safe area to pull over once you’re able to come to a stop. If you’re not able to bring the vehicle to a complete stop, look for open spaces that you can coast across without hitting anything.

* If the safest spot to “crash land” your vehicle requires you to jump a curb, extra caution must be taken. Even with power steering, the cars’ initial reaction will be to rip the steering wheel from your hands, bounce from the curb and back into traffic. It is imperative that you grip the steering wheel in a firm manner and angle your car deep enough into the curb so that it will go up and over, yet shallow enough so that you don’t turn the car completely and lose control in a spin.

11. Steer sharply from side-to-side Turning creates friction, which slows your car naturally. If you do not have brakes, try turning sharply from left to right over and over to slow your car down. Do not do this at high speeds. Turning at high speeds may flip your car and turning too sharply at any speed can spin your car around, so be careful.

12. Use the Aerodynamics against your car if you are on a highway and you lost braking power try to open the doors, the 2 front doors or the 2 doors at the back. A sunroof will also do. If you are driving at high speed you will have to push much harder to resist the air flowing around. This is extremely helpful because opening the doors applies a lot of drag of about 80% to 90% of it, which is normally around 60% of the drag of a normal going car on the road.

Tips:

* Several “brake failure” cases are brought about by an object getting stuck under the brake pedal, such as a toy or a soda bottle. Avoid this situation by keeping your car clean and free of debris, especially the area around the driver’s seat.

* You can avoid most instances of brake failure by regularly checking your brake fluid and changing it according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. You should also have your entire brake system inspected at regular intervals or if you notice any change in the performance of your brakes. Don’t put off making necessary repairs or performing routine maintenance.

* Downshift when beginning long downhills. Overuse of your brakes will cause them to overheat and fail.

* Avoid “riding the brakes” when going down a prolonged incline. Brake hard, slowing the vehicle significantly, then coast for a time, and set the car in a specific gear, even in an automatic. If necessary, make another downshift. If further braking is necessary, apply it lightly, and release it for short intervals. This does not mean to pump the brakes, as this will give a worst result. It’s better to apply an almost constant light brake pressure, with small intervals, rather than constant pumping of stronger brake pressure. Heat destroys the effectiveness of your brakes.

If the brakes do heat up, use more engine braking and less foot-brake pressure, to slow the car down, stopping it gently with the emergency brake, and letting off of the brakes all together. If the brakes are exposed, going out and pouring just a bit of water on them will help.

* In the wet, especially after hydroplaning or going through deeper water, the brakes might fade due to moist. When going into such water, it’s best to apply light acceleration, or even de-clutch. Once exiting the water, or recovering from a hydroplaning incident, press the brakes moderately-light, release and reapply (again, do not pump). This will help you feel whether the pedal is spongy and soft, in which cases a few more times of reapplying the brakes in that manner should dry the brakes.

* Do not shift an automatic transmission into park when moving. The parking pawl that binds the transmission will not be able to support a moving car.

* That red “brake light” comes on for a lot of reasons! It’s not just to tell you that your parking brake is engaged. Check every time you start the car that it flashes, to make sure it’s working. If it comes on while you’re driving, you’ve lost at least half of your braking system. If it comes on while you’re applying the brakes, you have a problem, most likely low brake fluid or a faulty master cylinder.

Warnings:

* Do not shut the engine off during a brake failure, as power steering systems are hydraulically driven, and regulated by engine vacuum, as is the brake booster. If you do panic and shut the engine off, hydraulic systems typically give you three more power assisted pumps. Turn the key to the second position (accessories) so the steering wheel doesn’t lock.

* Sudden down-shifts may damage your transmission. This is especially true if you manage to shift in reverse. That said, you must do what is necessary to stop the vehicle.

* Once you manage to stop the vehicle, do not attempt to drive it again until you are sure the problem is fixed.

Source: http://www.wikihow.com